The Pieman's Craft:
Making Pizza Neapolitan Dough with Kesté's Roberto Caporuscio
In this episode of The Pieman's Craft from Slice we tag along as Roberto Caporuscio from New York City's Kesté Pizza & Vino makes Neapolitan pizza dough. Watch Caporuscio go from flour, water, and salt to dough to finished pizza. And try not to drool.
In this episode of The Pieman's Craft, we visit Roberto Caporuscio of Kesté Pizzeria & Vino in New York City as he makes a batch of dough for the restaurant's celebrated Neapolitan pizza. Caporuscio takes us from flour-water-salt to dough* to finished pizza.
In the video, you'll see three trays of dough. The orbs of dough you'll see in the right-hand tray are newly balled, at the 24-hour mark; those in the middle tray have risen for 4 hours after balling (28 hours after mixing); and those in the left-hand tray are approaching the 40-hour mark and, says Caporuscio, need to be used soon or they'll be unworkable.
Enjoy the video, which was shot and edited by Serious Eats video intern extraordinaireJessica Leibowitz.
After seeing the video of Roberto Caporuscio of Keste make dough, I was really intrigued and decided to try a clone. Roberto's pizza is masterful in it's creation and execution. And I am not aware of others who use this workflow. If you want the short of it, scroll down to the pics - I got some really good results. If you want the full story of the dough, read on.
Video from Slice:
http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/12/how-to-make-neapolitan-pizza-dough-with-kestes-roberto-caporuscio.html
Factors (see screen caps for reference):
1. This clone is not really about figuring out ingredients, we already know what they are: Caputo Pizzeria 00 flour, water, salt, and cake yeast. So even though I have never tasted Keste pizza, I am confident that I can get the same taste in dough. We also have alot of insight into the process from the video.
2. 60% hydration (25kg bag of flour/15 liters of water).
3. Salt: this is still a bit of a guess, but the container he shows in the video is around 1/4-1/3 full. It is a sixth size restaurant pan, which is 1.6 liters. That is either 400-533 grams, which works out to around 2%. This seems low, but since this is a potentially 40 hour room temp dough, too much salt would kills the small amount of...
4. Yeast: cake yeast in a very small amount, dissolved in the water. I used .075, but I could have easily gone to .05 or lower. I have a feeling Roberto uses lower than that. You will need a micro scale to get these small quantities for 4-6 balls of dough.
5. Room temperature: I have no idea what temp he bulks at. My house this time of year is 65-67, so that was the determining factor in the amount of yeast I used.
6. 260-270 gram ball size. My oven works best with 280 grams, so I decided to stick to that number. It resulted in a puffier crust that Roberto's.
So, here is the dough I made:
Yeast was dissolved in room temp water, flour was dumped in and mixed for a few seconds, then the salt. Total mix time was longer than normal for me - around 5 minutes. I then finished by hand. I do not have a fork mixer, but my goal was to have the dough looking very fluid and smooth, as in the video. Went into a glass container, and was not touched for 24 hours.
After 24 hours, there was some signs of fermentation. This is why i think even at 65 degrees, less yeast is needed. But I balled them up. The dough was slack and heavy, as in the video, but that dough also did not have visible signs of fermentation. I reached another 6 hours before I thought it was ready to be used - a total of 30 hours.
The dough was the lightest, most flexible dough I have ever worked with. It had strength, but seemed to just do everything you wanted it to. There were tons of air bubbles.
The cooked pizza was stellar. Light as a feather. There was a softness to the inside crumb that I have never achieved before, which contrasted beautifully with the crunchy, charred bits of the outside. Since my oven is so small, my leoparding was not as spread out as Roberto's. But all in all I think that I achieved something that resembles one of Roberto's pies.
John
Video from Slice:
http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/12/how-to-make-neapolitan-pizza-dough-with-kestes-roberto-caporuscio.html
Factors (see screen caps for reference):
1. This clone is not really about figuring out ingredients, we already know what they are: Caputo Pizzeria 00 flour, water, salt, and cake yeast. So even though I have never tasted Keste pizza, I am confident that I can get the same taste in dough. We also have alot of insight into the process from the video.
2. 60% hydration (25kg bag of flour/15 liters of water).
3. Salt: this is still a bit of a guess, but the container he shows in the video is around 1/4-1/3 full. It is a sixth size restaurant pan, which is 1.6 liters. That is either 400-533 grams, which works out to around 2%. This seems low, but since this is a potentially 40 hour room temp dough, too much salt would kills the small amount of...
4. Yeast: cake yeast in a very small amount, dissolved in the water. I used .075, but I could have easily gone to .05 or lower. I have a feeling Roberto uses lower than that. You will need a micro scale to get these small quantities for 4-6 balls of dough.
5. Room temperature: I have no idea what temp he bulks at. My house this time of year is 65-67, so that was the determining factor in the amount of yeast I used.
6. 260-270 gram ball size. My oven works best with 280 grams, so I decided to stick to that number. It resulted in a puffier crust that Roberto's.
So, here is the dough I made:
| Flour (100%): Water (60%): CY (.075%): Salt (2%): Total (162.075%): Single Ball: | 691.04 g | 24.38 oz | 1.52 lbs 414.62 g | 14.63 oz | 0.91 lbs 0.52 g | 0.02 oz | 0 lbs | 13.82 g | 0.49 oz | 0.03 lbs | 2.88 tsp | 0.96 tbsp 1120 g | 39.51 oz | 2.47 lbs | TF = N/A 280 g | 9.88 oz | 0.62 lbs |
Yeast was dissolved in room temp water, flour was dumped in and mixed for a few seconds, then the salt. Total mix time was longer than normal for me - around 5 minutes. I then finished by hand. I do not have a fork mixer, but my goal was to have the dough looking very fluid and smooth, as in the video. Went into a glass container, and was not touched for 24 hours.
After 24 hours, there was some signs of fermentation. This is why i think even at 65 degrees, less yeast is needed. But I balled them up. The dough was slack and heavy, as in the video, but that dough also did not have visible signs of fermentation. I reached another 6 hours before I thought it was ready to be used - a total of 30 hours.
The dough was the lightest, most flexible dough I have ever worked with. It had strength, but seemed to just do everything you wanted it to. There were tons of air bubbles.
The cooked pizza was stellar. Light as a feather. There was a softness to the inside crumb that I have never achieved before, which contrasted beautifully with the crunchy, charred bits of the outside. Since my oven is so small, my leoparding was not as spread out as Roberto's. But all in all I think that I achieved something that resembles one of Roberto's pies.
John
keste_water.jpg (28.82 kB, 356x181) keste_salt.jpg (29.75 kB, 357x199) keste_dough.jpg (27.25 kB, 354x202) keste_pizza1.jpg (36.16 kB, 355x201) keste_pizza2.jpg (36.61 kB, 356x202)
Pizza's:
1. Salami
2. Margherita
3. Lobster
4. Baccala (salt cod), limoncello oil, fresh marjoram
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